October 2020 mid month – make compost, clear ground, brassica insects, vegetables for spring, seeds, fungi, insects

October 2020 mid month – make compost, clear ground, brassica insects, vegetables for spring, seeds, fungi, insects
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The transition from summer to winter vegetables is almost complete. It’s both sad and exciting: we just ate the first celeriac, yet still have tomatoes ripening in boxes. There have been cool nights with ground frost, not cold enough to kill the gorgeous marigolds and zinnias.

However my Czar runner beans have not dried as well as normal, after the 111mm/4.4in rain over five days in early October. Day temperatures are consistently 11-14C, mid fifties F.

After 7am and it's still dusky
After 7am and it’s still dusky. We keep the edges cut and I grow flowers in any free spaces, phacelia left, zinnias and marigolds right
Drone view 7th October no dig garden
Drone 7th October, 1000 sqm bed area is all full
Autumn season sees brassicas thriving in damp conditions
Autumn season sees brassicas thriving in damp conditions. These are a mix of cabbages for now and later, swedes and kohlrabi, also spring onions transplanted three weeks ago after clearing courgettes

Compost making

There is so much interest now in making compost, and if you are one of many who are perhaps struggling with a first heap, please don’t be discouraged! It’s not always easy, especially when supplies of raw material are limited. For example, heaps don’t get hot when additions are small and sporadic – but the resulting compost can still be good, eventually.

The photos I show from here can discourage some, and I apologise for that. Homeacres is a 3/4 acre garden (one quarter acre of vegetables), so there is a lot of raw material. Plus I add wood chip contributions from tree surgeons/arborists, and from other sources such as cardboard, paper, coffee grounds, hair (!) and spent hops.

You can add any organic matter and this is after a visit to the hairdresser
You can add any organic matter and this is after a visit to the hairdresser, together with garden wastes
Many harvests resulted in a lot of trimmings and heat!
Leaves of root vegetables, outer leaves of chicories and many other trimmings, plus grass clippings, resulted in the heap being temporarily almost too hot, even with wood chip + soil + cardboard added
Piles of wood chip and mature compost
The wood chip pile nearest was delivered 17 days earlier and is still over 50C, behind is year old compost we are using now, and older chips

Clearing an allotment no dig

With cardboard and compost of almost any kind, you can clear weeds quickly, then plant. See these results on the Wheaton’s allotment in Norfolk, which they took on in early summer.

The Wheaton's new allotment all overgrown in June
The Wheaton’s new allotment all overgrown, Norfolk June 2020
New allotment in early July, paths cardboard and beds with mushroom compost
New allotment in early July, paths cardboard and beds with mushroom compost. Some wood then applied on the paths
New no dig allotment produce September 2020
New no dig allotment produce September 2020

Mixed results

I am upset to hear of a lovely allotment site in Oxford, being threatened by bulldozing to make new houses. With new planning laws, this will be harder to prevent, although there is a petition you can sign.

If you have space at home, my other two photos below give ideas for maximising harvests from small spaces. See this video for a year of cropping the one bed in my middle photo below.

Allotment site threatened by Blenheim Palace
Allotment site threatened by Blenheim Palace in Oxford
One bed intensively cropped all year
One bed intensively cropped all year, just one application of compost in winter and also before new plantings of salad for winter and spring
New planting 13th October of lambs lettuce or corn salad
New planting 13th October of lambs lettuce or corn salad, under and between swedes (rutabagas) in the small garden. We spread the annual compost first, an inch or so, 2.5cm.

Small garden

Harvests continue to be steady and seasonal, with beetroot, leeks, salads, herbs and the first swedes ready. We made a video about it, posting on You Tube very soon.

You will see a sweet potato harvest. I was amazed by the 1.82kg/4lb of white fleshed Erato Gusto, with a fine flavour. There are two plants still to harvest.

Erato Gusto sweet potatoes from one plant on 7th October. They followed a May harvest of radish.
Small garden on 12th October, leeks are Philomene transplanted June as multisown modules sown July, followed peas for shoots

Seasonal vegetables

There is so much to harvest! Succession sowing and planting in summer pays off through autumn and winter.

We sell a lot to Bruton. Homeacres beds are still 90% full of vegetables, gradually emptying with each passing week now. Then we clear and spread the annual inch/2.5cm of compost.

The eighth year of cropping my trial beds, dig left and no dig right, harvests so far in 2020 are 80kg and 90kg respectively
Celery Octavius F1 from D.T. Browne was transplanted three months ago after French beans
New panting of salads for small harvests in winter months, celeriac Prinz on right was transplanted mid May

Winter and spring harvests

Vegetables to harvest fresh in the winter half of each year start life at different times.  For best harvests, timing makes a big difference.

Sow Brussels sprouts in May, broccoli June, cauliflowers July, Chinese cabbage 1st August, pak choi early to mid August, spring cabbage late August. These are all brassicas.

Broccoli for spring, sown June
Broccoli Claret transplanted late June after broad beans which were sown late October to early November
Brussels Brodie, sown May and transplanted June among carrots
An early season Brussels sprout from Mr Fothergills, Brodie F1, transplanted June among carrots
Brussels Trafalgar, sown May
Mid season via Ron Heath, Trafalgar F1, transplanted June among carrots

Autumn winter spring

Lettuce, spring cabbage and salad onions to over winter can be sown late August. Plants do not have time to grow too large before winter, and they sit quiet for a while in midwinter. Thanks to a strong root system, new growth is fast and welcome in early spring.

Sow garlic now, and broad/fava beans late October to early November. The idea is to have not too much leaf growth before winter. especially for broad beans, which otherwise suffer damage from wind and frost.

Pak choi 5 weeks in the ground
Pak choi Joi Choi transplanted 8th September, but enviromesh has not prevented flea beetles from holing all leaves
Lettuce and spring onions
Lettuce Grenoble Red on left followed courgettes, and we picked a few leaves 13th October, sown late August, with spring onions beyond, not weeded yet
Cabbage for spring harvests
Spring cabbage was sown early September, three varieties to compare

Insects on brassicas, even in winter

Sow Chinese cabbage and salad rocket in early August. After transplanting these, I cover with mesh against insect. Even then some insects get in, especially to pak choi and Chinese cabbage. THE most difficult vegetables!

Pak choi flea beetle holes
Pak choi flea beetle holes – wish I had covered it with finer mesh
Chinese cabbage, a caterpillar in its heart
Chinese cabbage, a caterpillar in its heart despite mesh over
Salad rocket also has holes
Salad rocket also has holes, but for home consumption this would be fine

Fungal world

Autumn rains see many mushrooms and toadstools, a sign of healthy soil. There is a fine range at Homeacres, and in places the soil is quite white with mycelia. Be happy if you see this in your soil.

New mushrooms under broccoli
New mushrooms under broccoli after rain, 12th October
White mycelia no dig soil
White mycelia in no dig soil – there is a lovely smell of mushroom

Celery and septoria, another fungus

Also in the damp of autumn, we see a lot of Septoria blight on celery, celeriac and parsley. I am not aware of a remedy except for harvesting before it’s too endemic in plants.

With celery for example, some brown spots on leaves does not matter. However within say two weeks of seeing them, it can infect the celery stems as well and discolour them.

By December, it can cause rotting of celeriac, if they are left outside. A November harvest is best for celeriac, and they store well in a shed.

Septoria on celery leaves
Septoria on celery leaves ,but stalks are still clean and green
Septoria disease close up on celery
Septoria disease close up on celery, after all the rain

Under cover growing in autumn

It’s the changeover time, with final picks of summer’s plantings. I am sad to see my old friends go, not least the marigolds.

28th September polytunnel tomatoes marigolds
28th September polytunnel, after not watering this area for three weeks to help ripen tomatoes
Polytunnel other end early October with cucumbers
Polytunnel other end early October, still picking cucumbers Carmen
Charles picking loofahs
Charles picking loofahs 8th October and Chermayne behind, giving invaluable help this autumn

I use the greenhouse’s extra warmth for aubergines and even some ripe peppers.

The final three Black Pearl aubergines
The final three Black Pearl aubergines. they have been prolific
After clearing most tomatoes and marigolds
After clearing most tomatoes and marigolds, with endive chard and kale on left
Last sweet peppers
Last sweet peppers Bendigo F1, plants being cleared 15th October

Under cover growing in winter

September sow, October transplant. Here it helps to have plants in the ground before mid October, giving them more time to settle and grow new roots before winter.

On 7th September I sowed lettuce Grenoble Red and endive, plus land cress. Then on 17th-18th we sowed all other winter salads, including salad rocket, mustards, and Claytonia.

We water fully before planting, then need to water less afterwards, say twice a week now and once a week November, even less in winter.

Newly dibbed holes for transplants
Cucumbers cleared ground watered from above and by hand, I have dibbed holes for transplants
Chermayne planting Grenoble Red lettuce
12th October 2020 – Chermayne planting polytunnel lettuce into pre-dibbed holes
Greenhouse planted 13th October
Greenhouse planted 13th October with lettuce and mustards in middle bed

Bought seed, and seed saving

My experiences recently are not good, with many older and open pollinated varieties of vegetables. For example

  • Gardeners Delight tomato, which is now twice the size, half as sweet and tough to bite.
  • Late sprouting purple broccoli has smaller stalks, so I grow Claret F1.

Most importantly, Boltardy beetroot is slipping away from its earlier high standard. Seed producers are not selecting best beetroots to save seed from. See the result below. I complained to Kings Seeds and got nowhere!

The other options are F1 seed, or save your own. Both are expensive – beets need 8-10 plants together for cross pollination, so that is a lot of space. Plus you need good roots to select from, for planting next spring. The selection/roguing of poor plants is what seed companies are not paying for.

See more on Seed Saving in my online Course 2.

Misshapen Boltardy beetroots
Misshapen Boltardy beetroots and this is becoming widespread – sown same time, same seed packet
Home saved mustard seeds
Home saved mustard seeds from last July, brassica seeds store for a few years
Feo de Rigordo tomato for seed saving, and eating!
Feo de Rigordo tomato for seed saving, and eating!

Courses

It is an experience to run courses in Covid days. For some we have been outside too much and gotten cold. So we come in more if needed, masked up and I wear a visor while talking inside.

It’s great to meet people in real life!!

There are two courses here this coming week, fully booked, then two in Inverness!

Visit of RHS students to Homeacres 2nd October
Visit of RHS students to Homeacres 2nd October, with Sheila Das the manager of Wisley Edibles Gardens

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