October 2024

October 2024
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Covers on weeds and against insects

Above is my "new area" since 2021, now clear of convolvulus. We covered a weedy corner in February with black plastic and 7 cm compost underneath. This is 25th September with new beds after plastic removed, compost scraped from 40 cm paths, see below.

Covers are mesh and fleece, on plants susceptible to insects and rabbits, sometimes also needing warmth. Under them above are Chinese cabbage, salad rocket, turnips and winter radish. Sometimes I use 12mm bird netting, to protect plants such as overwintering broccoli, against pigeons, rabbits, and deer. It does not protect against insects, or give warmth,

Sugarloaf chicory chomped by deer. They have not yet returned to eat more
Sugarloaf chicory chomped by deer. They have not yet returned to eat more, and I tolerate a few losses, but would cover with netting if they do more damage.
Salad rocket are under fleece cover, with no hoops, and has been picked twice of outer leaves
Salad rocket is my favourite autumn salad. These are under fleece, for warmth and insect protection, with no hoops. Plants at 22cm spacing have been picked twice of outer leaves. Sown 6th August, transplanted 21st August after rye. See my Calendar 2025 for the sowing dates all year.

Making perennial weed roots disappear

We have eliminated Convolvulus arvensis or bindweed through removal every week over two whole summers, of any new regrowth. A trowel means we lever out the new, white roots, to a length of about 10 cm/4". They all go on the compost heap.

The deeper roots, we never removed, but they have limited energy and eventually die, usually after two summers of doing this.

The difficult part is keeping edges clean from invading deeper roots. As in the next photo, close to a weedy corner.

Convolvulus bindweed grew out of sight and reach under squash leaves, we took the harvest and now shall clear the bed
Convolvulus bindweed grew out of sight and reach under squash leaves, we took the harvest and now shall clear the bed, including the bindweed. This bed received 3cm compost and is now planted to garlic.

Fleece and mesh

Heading into autumn, there are fewer insects, and it's turning colder. Increasingly now, I favour fleece over mesh, but even a mesh cover is excellent for giving some wind protection.

For example, I keep such a cover, all through winter and early spring, over spring cabbages we are transplanting now. Mesh gives great protection to small brassicas, against pigeons in particular.

Sorrel left, and new spring cabbage Caraflex, Spring Hero and Golden Acre. Now they are covered with mesh on hoops
Sorrel left, and new spring cabbage Caraflex, Spring Hero and Golden Acre. Now they are covered with mesh on hoops.
Multisown spring onions White Lisbon just transplanted 26th September, covered against rabbits and weather
Multisown spring onions White Lisbon just transplanted 26th September, with mesh against rabbits and weather . They are to crop in April and early May mostly.

Compost making, and turning?

In my new video, I show how you can turn a heap more easily. Not that it's vital to do. There are no absolute rules in making compost, but understanding the principles helps you to work out a best method in your location, and for the size of garden you have.

My new book addresses these factors. Also, we are offering it as a discounted double pack with No Dig, in my webshop.

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Compost 7 weeks old, turning it in an easy way, see video. Plus using a 'manure fork' reduces the effort needed.

Composts for starting no dig

What is this word compost?

I define it as anything more than half decomposed, and it does not need to be perfectly fine and crumbly. You can use it unsieved and sometimes a bit lumpy, even with small pieces of wood visible.

Options to buy are green waste and mushroom compost (Somerset supplier) and old animal manure. All are suitable at any stage and green waste compost is cheapest when starting out. It's carbon, food for soil life!

In 2024 we spread 4 cm of it in February on top of mown weeds and grass, see my earlier blogs. Then 3 cm mushroom compost on top, covered with black plastic. From squash planted 17th May, we took a harvest of winter squash.

Now we have made beds in this area of 66 m².

Crown Prince squash before the mid-September harvest, and after harvesting Red Kuri which mature earlier
Crown Prince squash before the mid-September harvest, and after harvesting Red Kuri which mature earlier
After removing the black polythene to re-use again, Taryn is marking 40cm paths and 1.2m beds
1 After removing the black polythene to re-use again, Taryn is marking 40cm paths and 1.2m beds, 16 in x 4 ft
Compost scraped out to deepen paths, compost is added to beds and 12mm wood chip to paths
Compost applied February is scraped out to deepen paths, then new compost is added to beds and 3cm of 12mm wood chip to paths

Patio vegetables

We made a video about this, published 7th October approx.

I've been trialling a few things this summer and the video explains how it has worked out. On the seed packets for the butternut squash, they say you can get 4 to 5 fruits from each plant. I guess that would need a much bigger pot!

Squash Butterbush F1 in 10 L pots, about two gallons
Squash Butterbush F1 in 10 L pots, about two gallons

New sowings

There are very few. Mainly garlic and now we're in a waxing moon, with favourable conditions in that sense until mid month. Up until two days before the full moon of 17th, for stronger growth subsequently.

You can sow broad beans to overwinter small, from late October. Except for colder climates such as Scotland, I recommend not to sow too early. I find here at least, that late October until around mid November works well, either sown direct or one seed per CD module cell. Plants need to be not too big in order to survive frost better.

Full moon rising 17th September so I sowed many salad plants for winter on 15th September
Full moon rising 17th September and I sowed many salad plants for winter on 15th September.
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Mustard green manure after globe artichoke, and the lettuce bed behind is just sown to mustard. This Sinapis alba mustard is killed by moderate frost, sow before 10th October

New plantings under cover

By 20th October, I plan to have all of the polytunnels and greenhouse planted with transplants of brassica salads, lettuce, endive, claytonia, and more.

For six months of winter harvests, see video.

Before we plant for winter, there are some tomatoes to pick and enjoy from the greenhouse. No feeds given
Before we plant for winter, there are some tomatoes to pick and enjoy from the greenhouse. No feeds given. These are super-ripe Sonnenherz, and a pink oxheart type to right.

Harvest time of summer succession plantings

I hope that you are enjoying many flavoursome harvests. Cabbage and cauliflower are abundant here, in many forms and colours. Plus the first leeks are coming ready. When multisown, you get a lot! Just none of them are giant leeks.

The Jolant variety matures early, which means we can start harvesting now before there is too much risk of the horrible new pest, Allium leaf miner. Prevalent by November last year, but I don't want to cover all leeks!

Multisown Jolant leeks after potatoes, planted 12 weeks on 8th July
Multisown Jolant leeks after potatoes, planted 12 weeks on 8th July
The Granat red cabbage are well ready, and should stand for a month. taller Filderkraut are firming nicely
The Granat red cabbage are well ready, and should stand for a month. Filderkraut left are firming nicely and I am in no rush to pick them. Some are for sauerkraut.

The cabbages were sown 8th May, transplanted mid-June after broad beans that overwintered.

Borlottoi bean pods (for dry beans) 2nd October are not fully dry, but need to be picked because the leaves are finished, meaning no new growth
Borlottoi bean pods (for dry beans) 2nd October are not fully dry, but need to be picked because the leaves are finished, meaning no new growth, and they will dry best in the house for two weeks.

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